This is a tough question to answer without more information, but if your tree started to fail during this summer’s drought and extreme heat, don’t remove the tree just yet!  Wait until spring to see if it leaf's out again.  In the meanwhile, follow these steps during the rest of the growing season to give your tree a chance to recover. 

Water!  The best method is to use buckets with holes, a soaker hose, or let your hose run under the tree, rather than sprinkling.  Always follow local watering restrictions/rules. 

Water in early morning or evening. To minimize losses due to evaporation in full sun. If the tree looks drought-stressed, water it as soon as possible. 

Water deeply, less often. Ninety percent of a tree’s roots are in the top 12 inches of soil no matter how big the tree is. Water out to the drip line (the furthest reach of the leaves). 

How much water?  A general rule of thumb is 10 gallons for each inch of trunk diameter. So, a 4-inch tree requires about 40 gallons. A hose under medium pressure delivers about 10 gallons in 5 minutes. 

How often?  At least once per month, 3 times if possible. 

What do I water first?  The priority is small trees with less well-established root systems.  Medium and large trees will be able to withstand some drought since they have more established roots but give them water if they start to wilt or show other signs of stress like dropping their leaves in summer. 

Do not fertilize during drought!  Stressed trees can’t handle it.  

Mulch: 2-3 inches over the root zone, not touching the tree‘s trunk.  

Don’t worry about the lawn!  Lawns can be replaced in a matter of months, but a 20-year-old tree will take 20 years to replace. 

You can find more guidance on watering and mulching your trees on the Shade Tree Commission website at Shade Tree Commission resources page.